2016 Ferrando Carema: A Return to Classicism

Posted on Posted in Luigi Ferrando, Rosenthal Wine Merchant News, RWM Contributor

The histories of Rosenthal Wine Merchant and the village of Carema have been intertwined since January of 1980, when Neal purchased a small lot of wine from Luigi Ferrando—the very first wine he ever imported. Over the ensuing decades, Ferrando’s Carema has gone from a wine virtually unknown outside of its immediate vicinity to one of the most iconic wines in our portfolio, revered by enthusiasts across the United States and well beyond, and allocated down to the bottle. Our shared history has come full circle in recent years, with Neal and Kerry having had the incredible opportunity to purchase three minuscule parcels within Carema itself: Piole, Runc, and Sasso, totaling six-tenths of a hectare. And, in one of the most moving moments in RWM’s history, Neal was made an honorary citizen of the village of Carema in March of 2019. In the company of many members of our winegrowing family, it was a celebration of the human element that underpins all meaningful wines—a reminder that, for those of us involved in the world of real wine, our fortunes are all inextricably linked.

Northern Piedmont is in the midst of a gradual but palpable renaissance, with winegrowers reclaiming vineyards that had been abandoned through the political and economic woes of the 20th century, and consumers increasingly realizing the value and character of Nebbiolo planted in these cooler climes. This vibrant spirit has taken hold in Carema as well, which totaled 36 hectares when the DOC was created but fell to 14 hectares at its nadir a few decades back. Today, there are 16 hectares under cultivation, with further vineyard expansion—an arduous process on these steep and virtually soil-less slopes—taking place, and even a few newcomers beginning to bottle their own wines. Still, at the heart of it all remains the Ferrando family, the standard-bearer for this singular place since Luigi began bottling his own wines in the early 1960s. Today, his sons Roberto and Andrea work tirelessly for this DOC with which their family name is nearly synonymous, and they are currently clearing out and replanting a 0.1-hectare parcel called Laurey in the old historical heart of the zone.

Visitors to Ferrando’s cellar in Carema are confronted with an unassuming room whose stark simplicity stands in contrast to the dramatic visual splendor of the vineyards themselves. There is no expensive thermoregulatory equipment, no spotless new wood; it is, quite simply, a room full of old oak casks, bare-walled and raw-floored. But three years in this humble cellar transforms the juice of that amphitheater’s fruit into the most ethereal of all Nebbiolo—one which Neal named in Reflections of a Wine Merchant as no less than his desert-island wine. Certainly, in its emphasis on grace over force, on tension over richness, on equilibrium above ostentation, it embodies those characteristics that tend to guide RWM’s choices in this vast world of wine. There is beyond that, however, a certain spirit to the wine; an ineffable quality of itself-ness which only truly great wines possess.

The duo of 2016 Carema will reach our shores in mid-August. Compared to the broad, authoritative 2015 vintage, these 2016s are sprightlier and more vivacious, though certainly with notable concentration. A cooler growing season led to a relatively late harvest, and Roberto and Andrea commenced picking on October 20th, pulling in fruit of classically vigorous acidity; indeed, 2016 is a more uniquely Alpine vintage than its richer predecessor. With their ripe, sweet fruit, rippling tension, and excellent structure, these 2016s should make old bones.

2016 Carema “Etichetta Bianca”

Ferrando’s white-label Carema is arguably the most gorgeously elegant expression of Nebbiolo in existence, and this 2016 is a textbook version. Full of driving, kinetic energy, it presents a lifted and linear palate at this youthful stage which should broaden with bottle age, as well as an intoxicating blast of high-toned spices and mountain herbs. Never an overwhelmingly powerful wine, “Etichetta Bianca” derives its sense of structure more from its acid-fruit tension than its tannins, and that is particularly the case with this 2016. Fermented in stainless steel without temperature control and using only indigenous yeasts, it spent three full years in a blend of large Stockinger botti and smaller well-used French barriques.

2016 Carema “Etichetta Nera”

The Ferrandos only produce their legendary black-label Carema when the vintage allows for it, and it never comprises more than a fifth of their total production. To be labeled as “Etichetta Nera,” the wine must first be selected in the vineyard as worthy; then, it must pass muster post-malolactic-fermentation; and finally, a third verification is performed at the end of the three-year elevage. Raised entirely in a mix of used 250- and 500-liter French barrels, the 2016 is more profound and lower-pitched on the nose than its white-label counterpart, with blacker fruit and a stronger savory imprint. Its firmly gripping, lengthily tunneling finish promises decades of positive evolution.

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