I had a tremendous lineup of 2012 Burgundies out today. This was prompted by me sending an email blast showing the 2012’s we still have in stock (and praising the vintage in general), and having several clients express curiosity. I presented the lineup to two clients, then hosted a lunch for a few others at Roberta’s. Everything showed beautifully (and I’m not exaggerating for effect), and some were simply undeniable. Here’s what I had out:
–Pillot, 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanc Macherelles: Laser-like precision, chiseled and lean, with a swelling and lingering finish of pure stones. I had two clients remark, unprompted, something to the effect of, “Wow, Pillot has really tightened up his style!” Seems like I’m probably late to the party here, but he’s making amazing white wines, to be sure.
–Jacob, 2012 Beaune 1er Toussaints: fruit-forward, exuberant, charming, impossible to dislike. Lacking a touch of the gravitas and complexity of the others in today’s lineup, but hard to top for sheer Burgundy-drinking pleasure.
–Cornu, 2012 Chorey-les-Beaune Rouge Bons Ores: As befits a lieu-dit nestled against Aloxe-Corton, this showed impressive minerality and solidity, but still with a certain breeziness that one expects from Chorey. A perfect summation of the Cornu style—no sweeping gestures, no outward attempts to charm or seduce, no insistence upon itself, simply honest and pure Burgundy. Outright amazing for the new sale price.
–Cornu, 2012 Ladoix 1er Bois Roussot: More spice-box complexity, more earthy depth, more nuance on the palate. Cerebral wine but open and accessible.
–Chauvenet, 2012 Nuits-Saint Georges: Showing a touch more potential than kinetic energy at the moment, this is a reserved, stony, brooding core of rock with dark, gamy, spicy fruit wrapped tautly around it.
–Georges Lignier, 2012 Chambolle-Musigny: Lovely in every imaginable sense. The delicacy and prim perfection of Chambolle with a hint of Morey funk around its edges—and just wide-open, unabashedly ready to drink right now.
–Georges Lignier, 2012 Morey-Saint Denis 1er Clos des Ormes: More earth, more spice, more savory depth. Also almost shockingly open. Given the current stock level, one we should all be sinking our teeth into.
–Harmand-Geoffroy, 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin En Jouise: Meaty, succulent, hearty, full-fruited, but very, very pure in character and fresh in its mineral-tinged way. This reinforces the excitement I’ve felt at our last few visits with Philippe, who really seems impeccably capable and talented.