Domaine Pascal Granger

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The Domaine Pascal Granger is located in the hamlet of Les Poupets within the village of Juliénas in the heart of the finest sector of the Beaujolais district. This estate has been in the Granger family for over two hundred years, dating to Napoleonic times, and has passed from father to son continually. The domaine encompasses 14 hectares with vineyard holdings in the home village of Juliénas and extending through the neighboring villages of Jullié, Chénas, La Chapelle de Guinchay and Leynes. All harvesting is done manually and treatments in the vineyards are minimal with weed-growth tolerated between the vines.
Granger-La-Jacarde-blanc Beaujolais-Villages Blanc La Jacarde: The only white wine produced at this domaine, the Beaujolais Blanc is sourced from vines in the village of Leynes just south of the villages of Chaintré and Fuissé, a notable area for the production of wines produced from the Chardonnay grape. This single vineyard site of “La Jacarde” is planted to old vines and was formerly part of the Domaine Bernard Dalicieux, the first Beaujolais producer to grace the RWM portfolio. Upon Dalicieux’s retirement, we helped arrange the purchase of this prestigious vineyard site by Pascal Granger. The wine, vinified in stainless steel, is dry with citrus and almond notes, not as flamboyant nor as powerful as the best of the wines from the neighboring appellations of Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint Véran but quite distinguished and satisfying nonetheless.
Granger-Beaujolais-Villages-Le-Bouteau Beaujolais-Villages Le Bouteau: A special cuvée sourced from old vines planted in the « Le Bouteau » vineyard in Leynes, the northernmost village in the Beaujolais district. This wine, due to its substantial structure, undergoes a longer cuvaison and an extended elevage. With its breadth of flavors (red fruits and wild berries) and wealth of backbone, this wine will provide positive surprises as it offers proof of the superior qualities of the best of this modest appellation. The majority of this cuvée is shipped for our use in the US market … 3600 bottles annually.
Chénas “Aux Pierres” Cru de Beaujolais: The smallest holdings of the estate, the vineyards are spread between the villages of Chénas and La Chapelle-de-Guinchay in the northern sector of the Beaujolais district. After a period of eight to ten days of fermentation, the wine is racked into vats until the following spring when it is bottled. A subtle but tenacious wine with a more discrete bouquet and gentle tannins, Granger’s Chénas is a wine that can be enjoyed in its youth but can give great pleasure over a two to four year period.

Moulin a Vent “Les Chassignols” Cru de Beaujolais: Another very limited production cuvée from vines of average age of 50 years on the mid-hill, south facing vineyards known as ‘Chassignols’ where the soil is composed of granite.  30% of the grapes are left whole, while 70% are de-stemmed.   This great “cru” has an extended fermentation of about 20 days in large cement cuves before it is racked into demi muids and foudre for the six months of elevage.   A sturdy wine, reserved in its youth, marked by the smells and flavors of red fruits, roses and spice, the Moulin a Vent from Granger deserves several years of cellaring.  4,000 bottles produced.

Juliénas Cru de Beaujolais: From a series of vineyard sites spread across the villages of Juliénas and Jullié, this is the most important “cru” of the domaine in terms of volume (50,000 bottles per annum, more or less). The primary soils are a combination of clay and gravel which produce an ebulliently fruity wine with substantial backbone. The cuvaison lasts usually for ten days. The Granger Juliénas distinguishes itself with its subtle undertones of cinnamon and violet beneath the luscious red fruits of the best of Beaujolais.
Granger-Julienas-Cuvee-Speciale Juliénas Cru de Beaujolais Cuvée Spéciale: This exceptional wine is a selection from the oldest vines of the domaine with an average age in excess of seventy (70) years. The cuvaison generally continues for 12 days. The wine is racked into vat but also spends several months aging large oak casks before it is bottled. The limited yields from the old vines produce a wine of great character: structured but generous with the potential to age from four to eight years and beyond in the best of vintages.
Granger-Julienas-Grande-Reserve Juliénas  Cru de Beaujolais Grande Réserve: This elite cuvée is sourced from grapes planted in the most prestigious vineyard sites of the appellation: Les Mouilles and Les Capitans. The juice is fermented for 15 days and then it is placed in barrel for a two year elevage. This wine is a powerful expression of this special terroir, bearing a garnet color, carrying deep tannins and tending to “pinot”, that is it develops the complexity and enchanting aromas of many of the fine reds from the Cote d’Or.
Download Granger tech sheet
Domaine NameDOMAINE DE LA CROIX ROUGE
Family/Owners NameGRANGER
How many years has the family owned the domaine?Since 4 generations
How many generations?2 GENERATIONS
How many hectares of vines are leased?Moulin a Vent and Chénas in vineyard rental system. Juliénas 50% in share-cropping
How many hectares of vines are owned?3 ha. Beaujolais blanc and 50% Juliénas
Describe your vineyard management practices (e.g. low-intervention, organic, biodynamic, standard, etc.).Manual and mechanical work. No green harvest due to the weak harvest
PLEASE ALSO ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING IN YOUR REPLY:Fertilizer : humus in winter
Do you typically sell or buy any grapes? Please specify.No
Do you sell off any of your wine en vrac?Yes
WINE 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationJULIENAS
Cepage/UvaggioGAMAY
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced10 000
Grams of Residual SugarNO
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsLES GONNARDS LES CHANORIERS
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth/ South-East. Slight slope
Soil Types(s)Silica rock
Average vine age (per vineyard)40 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)10 000 vines/ha
Approximate harvest date(s)Between September 5 th and 10 th
PLEASE SHARE ANY NOTES ABOUT HARVEST/GROWING SEASON FOR THIS WINE IN THIS VINTAGEMild winter
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Humid and cool spring. Rainy summer until July 15th, then hot and dry. 2015 very dry
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmed30% whole cluster
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeConcrete tank and stainless steel tank
Duration of cuvaisonAbout 20 days
Duration of contact with lees3 months
Select or indigenous yeast?Neutral yeasts
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. PLEASE ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING, IF APPLICABLE: pump-overs, punch-downs, racking, movement/transfer of wine done by gravity or pumping?), battonnage, malolactic fermentation allowed, chaptalizationPumping-over twice a day. Punching-down at the end of the cuvaison. Malolactic fermentation
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Wood- big-barrel
Duration of elevage6 months
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market18 months
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?Yes, for the bottling.Free SO2 : 15mg/l
WINE 2
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationMOULIN A VENT
Cepage/UvaggioGAMAY
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced4000
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsCHASSIGNOLS
Exposures and slope of vineyardsMid-hillside. South exposure
Soil Types(s)Granite
Average vine age (per vineyard)50 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)10 000 vines/ha
Approximate harvest date(s)Between September 5th and 10th
PLEASE SHARE ANY NOTES ABOUT HARVEST/GROWING SEASON FOR THIS WINE IN THIS VINTAGEMild winter
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Humid and cool spring. Rainy summer until July 15th, then hot and dry. Cold winter with frosts, humid spring, dry summer with storm rainfall, august and September hot and sunny
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmed30% whole cluster, 70% destemmed
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeConcrete tank
Duration of cuvaisonAbout 20 days
Duration of contact with lees3 months
Select or indigenous yeast?Select yeasts but neutral
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine.PLEASE ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING, IF APPLICABLE: pump-overs, punch-downs, racking, movement/transfer of wine done by gravity or pumping?), battonnage, malolactic fermentation allowed, chaptalizationVinification in tank. Pumping-over twice a day. Malolactic fermentation in big-barrel
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Wood
Duration of elevage6 months
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market12 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeNo fining. Filtration with earth
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?At the bottling : 15 mg/l
WINE 3
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationChenas
Cepage/UvaggioGamay
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced4000
Grams of Residual SugarNo
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsLes pierres
Exposures and slope of vineyards South-east exposure, Slight slope
Soil Types(s)Granitic with a lot of stones
Average vine age (per vineyard)45 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)10 000 vines/ha
Approximate harvest date(s)September 5th and 10th
PLEASE SHARE ANY NOTES ABOUT HARVEST/GROWING SEASON FOR THIS WINE IN THIS VINTAGEMild winter
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Humid and cool spring. Rainy summer until July 15th, then hot and dry. Cold winter with frosts, humid spring, dry summer with storm rainfall, august and September hot and sunny
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmed30% whole cluster, 70% destemmed
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeConcrete tank
Duration of cuvaisonAbout 15 days
Duration of contact with lees3 months
Select or indigenous yeast?Select yeasts but neutral
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. Vinification in tank, pumping-over twice a day
PLEASE ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING, IF APPLICABLE: pump-overs, punch-downs, racking, movement/transfer of wine done by gravity or pumping?), battonnage, malolactic fermentation allowed, chaptalizationMalolactic fermentation in big-barrel
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Wood
Duration of elevage6 months in big-barrel
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market12months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describe No fining, Filtration with earth
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?At the bottling : 15 mg/l
WINE 4
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationJULIENAS cuvee spéciale
Cepage/Uvaggiogamay
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced6000
Grams of Residual SugarNo
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsLa croix rouge , les mouilles
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth exposure, Half hillside
Soil Types(s)Blue stones with granite
Average vine age (per vineyard)Between 70 and 80 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)10 000 vines/ha
PLEASE SHARE ANY NOTES ABOUT HARVEST/GROWING SEASON FOR THIS WINE IN THIS VINTAGEMild winter
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Humid and cool spring. Rainy summer until July 15th, then hot and dry. Cold winter with frosts, humid spring, dry summer with storm rainfall, august and September hot and sunny
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmed20% whole cluster, 80% destemmed
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeConcrete tank
Duration of cuvaison20 days
Duration of contact with lees 3 months
Select or indigenous yeast?Select yeasts but neutral
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. Vinification in tank with pumping-over twice a day, punching-down 4 to 5 per day before pressing
PLEASE ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING, IF APPLICABLE: pump-overs, punch-downs, racking, movement/transfer of wine done by gravity or pumping?), battonnage, malolactic fermentation allowed, chaptalizationMalolactic fermentation in storage tank and in barrel.
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing for 25% in burgundy barrel (1wine, 2wine, 3wine) and the other part in stainless steel tank
Duration of elevageAbout 8 months
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market18 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeNo fining but filtered with white earth
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?At the bottling : 20 mg/l
WINE 5
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationBeaujolais villages blanc
Cepage/Uvaggiochardonnay
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced8000
Grams of Residual SugarNo
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsLa jacarde
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth east exposure, No slope
Soil Types(s)Clay limestone
Average vine age (per vineyard)25 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)8000 vines/ha
PLEASE SHARE ANY NOTES ABOUT HARVEST/GROWING SEASON FOR THIS WINE IN THIS VINTAGEMild winter
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Humid and cool spring. Rainy summer until July 15th, then hot and dry. Cold winter with frosts, humid spring, dry summer with storm rainfall, august and September hot and sunny
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmed50% Mechanical harvest, 50% manual
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeStainless steel tank with temperature control
Duration of cuvaisonAbout 1 month
Duration of contact with leesAbout 3 months
Select or indigenous yeast?Select yeasts (Burgundy yeasts)
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. PLEASE ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING, IF APPLICABLE:pump-overs, punch-downs, racking, movement/transfer of wine done by gravity or pumping?), battonnage, malolactic fermentation allowed, chaptalizationVinification in pressure tank with once a week aeration. The temperature is about 18°C
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Stainless steel tank
Duration of elevage3 months
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market2 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeWe practice fining and filtration
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?At the bottling : 25mg/l

Beaujolais: An Essential Part of Burgundy

We have argued for many moons that some of, if not the, best values in red wine can be found in Beaujolais.  Certainly, when one cruises the “cru” vineyards of this region, the grapes of which have been cared for and transformed into wine by the serious and quite traditional growers, the notion that Beaujolais is every bit an essential, and quite glorious, part of Burgundy becomes evident.

To help make the point, here is a quick story about a recent tasting experience.  In our private cellar, we stumbled across a bottle of Juliénas “Grande Réserve” 1993 from Pascal Granger, our grower for many years whose cellars sit in the hamlet of Les Poupets, a kilometer or so from the center of the village of Juliénas.  Pascal has always vinified his most important wines in a manner that mimics to a degree the methods practiced by his neighbors to the north in the Cote d’Or.  He is particularly proud of his “Grande Reserve” offerings, often daring one to compare these wines to village wines from Gevrey, Morey and the like, all the while chuckling about the gross disparity in price.  Well, the other day we did just that in a way …. At the same sitting, while dining at a local (simple, humble but very good) restaurant known as “Another Fork in the Road” in Milan, New York, we brought, for our pleasure and that of several friends, both this ’93 Juliénas “GR” from Granger and a ’93 Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru “Les Perrieres” from Regis Forey.  Now, I am not going to shock anyone by reporting that the Juliénas “defeated” the Nuits St. Georges in some mock combat.  No, the Nuits was far too splendid for that little trick of fate to have occurred. But, the Juliénas provided lots of pleasure, still alive, still fresh on the palate nearly twenty years into its existence.

This is not the first, nor will it be the last time, we remark on the splendors of finely crafted Beaujolais.  The Gamay grape, planted in the lovely, welcoming hills of Beaujolais may not produce the most complex or regal wines but, when the vineyards are well-stiuated and the grower is dedicated, there are true gems to be found amongst the crowd of wines produced there … and almost always at prices that are more than reasonable.

NIR: 10 Feb 2013

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