As is the case with all of the Burgundians with whom we work, the Carillons have always applied the most rigorous standards to their work in the vineyards, affecting a near organic methodology. No herbicides are used; the earth is turned by plow and by hand, the vines are pruned short to control production, a severe debudding is practiced and a green harvest is practiced when deemed necessary. Harvest is always manual, a pneumatic pressoir is utilized, fermentation and elevage occur in barrel for at least one year, batonnage is done (judiciously!) and, before bottling, the wines are racked into stainless steel cuves for six months to settle and clarify. The dual goals are to produce ageworthy wines that are intensely expressive of their respective terroirs. They have managed to achieve those goals with stunning regularity and we are confident that Jacques Carillon will continue to produce wines of which his father, Louis, will be proud.
Jacques Carillon will exploit a domaine of 5.5 hectares the overwhelming majority of the vineyards being situated within Puligny Montrachet with additional holdings in Chassagne Montrachet, Saint Aubin and Mercurey.
|Puligny Montrachet: Jacques Carillon now owns 2.6 hectares of vines in the village appellation spread across several parcels. The average age of the vines is 35 years (as of 2011). The elevage in barrel (small and demi-muid) is for one year and 15% new oak is used; the assemblage is done and the wines are racked into stainless steel for an additional six months before being bottled with a delicate fining and light filtration.|
|Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Canet: The domaine owns 0.55 hectare in Champs Canet. The average age of the vines is 38 years (as of 2011). Fermentation and elevage occurs in small barrels, 20% of which are new. This cuvée is the most fine and floral of the offerings from Puligny but it remains defined by its fundamental minerality which courses through the lengthy finish.|
|Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Perrieres: Jacques Carillon now owns approximately 0.56 hectare in the 1er Cru site of “Perrieres”. The average age of the vines are 28 years, planted to clay-limestone soils. Again, the fermentation and elevage occur in small oak barrels, 20% of which are new. This cuvée is perhaps the most rich and broad of the 1er Cru Pulignys of the domaine with a piercing minerality. It is frequently the most reticent of the wines of the domaine in its youth but it has remarkable staying power.|
|Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts: The domaine controls about a quarter hectare of vines within this noble 1er Cru. The vines are an average age of forty years. The “Referts” is fermented and aged in barrel like the other whites and 20% of the barrels are new. This cuvée is the most refined and elegant and complex of the 1er Cru wines of the domaine, marrying its rich core to a rigorous structure that results in a wine capable of aging gracefully for a decade and more.|
|Chassagne Montrachet Blanc 1er Cru Les Macherelles: Jacques Carillon owns a half-hectare of vines in this 1er Cru site in the center of Chassagne. The vines were planted in 2003 so the vines are young at this stage. In fact, for the first years the wine was bottled as simply Chassagne Montrachet without declaring it as a 1er Cru. Now, as the vines age, the nuance that justifies its status as a 1er Cru is on display. During the fermentation and elevage in barrel, the wine is exposed to 15% new oak. The resulting wine is flattering, generous, open and round, showing the richness of Chassagne rather than the finesse of Puligny.|
|Bienvenues Batard Montrachet Grand Cru: Jacques Carillon has the privilege of owning a small parcel (0.12 hectare) of this rare and sublime Grand Cru. The vines are 40 years of age. The wine is treated in a fashion similar to all the whites of this domaine; the exposure to new oak is limited to 20% during the fermentation and elevage. Production is clearly very limited; the wine itself is grand: rich but disciplined, long in the finish and mouth-coating in its palate presence. We have enjoyed this wine over the years at ten, fifteen and even twenty years of age.|
From his five-and-a-half hectares of prime real estate in Puligny-Montrachet—with a sliver in Chassagne-Montrachet—Jacques Carillon produces among the most focused, mineral-drenched, age-worthy white wines in the Côte de Beaune. We at Rosenthal Wine Merchant enjoyed the privilege of working with his father Louis for nearly three decades, and Jacques’s methodology follows directly from his father’s—as does the character of the wines.
This past Saturday night we entertained some friends for dinner and drew some precious wines from the cellar … as you can witness from the photo. Each of the five wines served was in splendid condition.
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru has the most attractive nose of four tasted in this flight from this particular vineyard: well defined, with mineral notes suffusing the citrus fruit with just a hint of white peach, and neatly integrated oak. The palate is very […]