The Glories of Sweetness

Posted on Posted in Articles, Chateau La Rame, Chateau Soucherie, Clos de la Meslerie, Cru d’Arche Pugneau, Domaine de Fenouillet, Domaine de Montbourgeau, Domaine Lucien Crochet, Domaine Pecheur, Luigi Ferrando, Paolo Bea, Philippe Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin, Villa Sant’Anna, Yves Cuilleron

Long ago, sweetness in any form was far rarer than today, and it was prized thusly. In our era of ubiquitous corn syrup, junk food, and soda, it is difficult to imagine a world in which sugar was special, and the overall difficulty in selling sweet wines across all markets testifies to that. Still, sweetness in wine—real wine whose sweetness has not been coerced—remains one of nature’s rare gifts. Producing sweet wines requires a grower to be courageous, as she must wait to harvest and risk late-season vagaries of weather, or, in passito-style wines, assume the risk of air-drying fruit for upwards of half a year in her cellar. Sweet wine production requires prodigious effort for feeble yields, which generally then take longer to produce and longer to sell than their dry counterparts.

“Becoming Naturalized” An Interview with Peter Hahn of Clos de la Meslerie

Posted on Posted in Articles, Clos de la Meslerie, RWM Contributor

Peter Hahn is making some of the most dynamic, complex, and satisfying Vouvray in the entire appellation today. An American by birth, Peter acquired the four-hectare Clos de la Meslerie in the commune of Vernou-sur-Brenne in 2002, and rehabilitated it through fastidious organic viticultural work the estate’s old vines of Chenin Blanc, producing his first […]

A Morning in Vouvray

Posted on Posted in Clos de la Meslerie, Occasional Thoughts, Philippe Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin

        “Wednesday (20 Nov 2013) morning was dedicated to Vouvray with stops at Peter Hahn’s Clos de la Meslerie and Philippe Foreau’s Clos Naudin. 2013 was not kind to the appellation: a devastating hailstorm in summer and a rainy late season and cold spring reduced yields and made the growers struggle mightily […]