From 2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)
by Stephen Tanzer
Domaine Jacques Carillon
Carillon’s 2016s were barely starting their secondary fermentations at the beginning of June and thus were untasteable at the time of my visit. Carillon told me he was surprised by their natural acidity levels considering the lateness of the harvest. “The wines are less round than the 2015s but will be more minerally,” he predicted. He was afraid of the swollen berries but noted that “the concentration and the material are there.” He made 40 to 42 hectoliters per hectare in his premier crus, which he described as “almost normal yields for unfrosted spots.” I look forward to sampling these wines in their finished form next spring.
Carillon finds that the 2015s burn the mouth a bit with alcohol. The wines reminded him a bit of Condrieus just after the malolactic fermentations but he believes that they are better balanced now, noting that “I thought the 2003s would drink quickly but they’re still fresh today.”
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet
Peachy fruit dominates the nose. Lovely fruity, dry village wine with surprising energy. Leaner than I would have expected from the nose but boasts good precision. The slightly edgy finish displays good length. This wine has 4.1 grams per liter of acidity, according to Carillon.
88 Drinking Window: 2018 – 2023
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macharelles 1er Cru
Pale color. Pear drop and white truffle aromas are complicated by a sexy note of musky lees. Fatter and sweeter than the Puligny villages and nicely balanced for early pleasure. Offers good texture and concentration but could use a bit more complexity. Pear and menthol flavors carry through to a slightly dry-edged finish.
89 Drinking Window:2019 – 2025
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs Canet 1er Cru
Very ripe peach oil and a hint of apricot on the nose, along with a sexy suggestion of leesy hazelnut. Not as sweet in the mouth as the nose suggests but offers excellent breadth and good grip. In a distinctly fruity phase at present, showing little sign of minerality, but firmer than it appeared to be last year from barrel. This wine, made from millerandé 42-year-old vines, has 3.9 grams per liter acidity, according to Carillon.
91 Drinking Window:2019 – 2026
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru
(13.6% alcohol, vs. 13.7% for the Champs Canet and 13.8% for the Macharelles; 4 grams per liter acidity): Very ripe peach on the nose. Nicely ripe but more taut than the Champs Canet, displaying less sweetness but greater stony energy. More classic than the Champs Canet in the context of the vintage, this wine finishes with firm saline minerality and a touch of positive bitterness. A serious 2015 for the cellar: this may well close down further. Carillon notes that this wine always benefits from five years of bottle aging and is typically at its best five to eight years after the vintage.
92 Drinking Window:2021 – 2028
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru
(13.8% alcohol, with 4 grams acidity): Sexy, complex aromas of peach, ripe apricot, smoky minerality and musky hazelnut; I might have guessed Meursault. An alluring impression of sucrosité is nicely supported by firm minerality. Fine-grained, concentrated premier cru with lovely length and solid finishing acidity and minerality. Still a bit youthfully aggressive, though, and in need of aging, but ultimately a rich, Meursault style of Puligny (Carillon’s vines are right next to Meursault Charmes.)
92 Drinking Window:2020 – 2027
2015 Domaine Jacques Carillon Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Healthy pale yellow. Discreet yellow peach and soft citrus scents on the tangy nose. Tightly wound, juicy and firm; in a more minerally style than the Referts, showing a lovely streak of acidity that’s in sync with the wine’s reticent flavors of white peach and hazelnut. Finishes firm but not dry, with a strong impression of acidity and saline minerality. The most backward and austere of these 2015s and tricky to taste today. This is 13.7% alcohol with 4.4 grams per liter acidity, according to Carillon.
93+ Drinking Window:2022 – 2030