2018 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru amounts to two-and-a-half barrels this year (one barrel new.) It has a beautifully defined bouquet of Granny Smith apples, crushed limestone and a touch of sea spray that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with touches of white peach, linseed, citrus peel and crushed stone. Very pretty on the finish, but what entrances is the extraordinary length. Superb.
2023 – 2045
2018 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru
The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru is a blend of two cuvées that Jacques Carillon combined for me, the vines originating from the bottom of the vineyard. It has a complex bouquet of green apples, orange pith and crushed stone, tense and steely as a Puligny should be. The palate is underpinned by superb acidity that cuts through the richness and power of this Les Perrières. Long and deep on the finish. Yes!
2022 – 2040
2018 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru
The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru comes from a parcel close to Les Perrières. It has a much more reserved and broody bouquet compared to that vineyard, requiring more coaxing from the glass and, I suspect, more bottle age. The palate is quite saline on the entry with good acidity, and a little fatter than the Les Perrières. Mineralité floods through on the finish. Superb.
2022 – 2040
2018 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet 1er Cru
The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet 1er Cru offers attractive lime and green apple aromas, the 20% new oak nicely integrated. The palate is well balanced with orange zest and freshly sliced pear, almost Chassagne in style thanks to its gras-like finish. Very promising.
2022 – 2036
2018 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Chassagne-Montrachet Village
The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Village, tasted as the final blend, includes some parcels that were regrafted from red. It has much more vigor and intensity on the nose compared to the Puligny Village. The palate is saline on the entry, delivering crisp acidity, touches of sour lemon and orange peel and a waxy-textured finish. Excellent.
2021 – 2028
2018 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Village
The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from seven lieux-dits from around the appellation. It has an attractive bouquet of apple blossom, orange zest and light crustacean aromas. The palate is quite saline on the entry with a fine bead of acidity and good weight in the mouth, but just a little smudged on the finish.
2020 – 2025
2017 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
The 2017 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is built on tension and mineralité on the nose, which is somewhat uncompromising, austere and yet somehow penetrating. The palate is very well balanced with a subtle hazelnut-tinged opening. Quite fumé in style, delivering immense depth and precision on the finish. Jacques Carillon has a preference for his 2017 over his 2018 Bienvenue. It’s a close call but I can understand why.
2022 – 2045
2017 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru
The 2017 Puligny-Montachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a bouquet similar to the Les Perrières, featuring apple blossom and crushed limestone scents, very minerally and almost austere in style. The palate is where it’s all happening: intense green apple notes and touches of stem ginger, kiwi fruit and spice emerging toward a finish that fans out gloriously. This will give long-term pleasure.
2022 – 2038
2017 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet 1er Cru
The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru has a beautifully defined Granny Smith apple, Conference pear and wet limestone bouquet, introverted at first but finding its voice with aeration. The well-balanced palate displays a superb line of acidity. One of Carillon’s most malic wines, with a long, spicy finish. Long-term.
2022 – 2036
2017 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles 1er Cru
The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles 1er Cru is the final vintage, since Jacques Carillon’s lease from his father finished and his brother François Carillon took over the entire holding. This has a lilting nose of red apple and hints of lime, displaying fine mineralité and focus and wonderfully integrated oak. The palate is very well balanced with sour lemon and hints of toffee apple on the entry and good weight in the mouth. The finish fans out with great vigor. Superb!
2021 – 2035
2017 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru
The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru has a precise bouquet of crushed rocks, apple blossom and faint hazelnut aromas, all with impressive intensity. The elegant, pretty palate is very well balanced, offering a fine bead of acidity and apricot, quince and touches of lychee toward the generous, open finish. Lovely, although I prefer the nerve of the Champ Canet.
2021 – 2035
2017 Domaine Jean-Jacques Carillon Chassagne-Montrachet Village
The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a clean, precise, flinty bouquet that demonstrates more precision than the Puligny Village. The palate is very well balanced with a saline entry. Plenty of energy here, and a strict, focused finish. Excellent.
2020 – 2030