FEBRUARY 7, 2018 story: JON BONNÉ
Meet the winemakers leading the revolution in dry, mineral-driven wines in the Roussillon.
When anyone thought about the southern French region of Roussillon, it was as the latter half of the awkward geographic mashup “Languedoc-Roussillon,” which was mostly known for stylish, ripe wines. A few informed souls might have known about the region’s once-famous sweet wines, like Banyuls and Rivesaltes, which mostly have fallen into shadow. Neither revealed what’s happening in Roussillon today, which is a revolutionary shift toward fresh, mineral dry wines, some of France’s best.
One of Gauby’s protegés in Calce, German-born Thomas Teibert, makes wines that fall a bit further on the ripeness scale but with a nearly operatic sense of flavor. (He’s also one of the area’s biodynamic pioneers and works for the Austrian cooperage Stockinger.) His red and white Côtes Catalanes manage to be both stoic and luscious, meant for aging, while his more approachable L’Esprit de l’Horizon wines and Mar i Muntanya are a bit lighter and fresher, meant to drink young.