Tonight (1 Feb 2012) we are drinking a bottle of Domaine du Jaugaret 2007, a wine from a weak vintage (or so it is said). Satisfying – a true wine of Saint Julien, as clear an expression of this particular terroir as exists in today’s world of Bordeaux. Yet, this splendid wine may be the last that Jean-Francois Fillastre will declare as Saint Julien! The required tasting panel that authorizes the classification of a wine as worthy of the appellation St Julien has denied that privilege to Jaugaret for the 2008 vintage and perhaps for the subsequent vintage of 2009. Thus, we witness the paradox of our age: that the wine which is the most typical of the appellation (as understood by those with an appreciation and understanding of the history of the region) is declared an outlier because the modernists have redrawn the boundaries.
The ’07 Jaugaret has the most delicious and sensuous tannins of all of our Bordeaux providing a texture of ravishing intensity – a “tour de force”.