Domaine de Montbourgeau

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Domaine de Montbourgeau has produced traditional Jura wines since Victor Gros, the grandfather of current Vigneronne, Nicole Deriaux, first planted the estate’s vineyards in 1920. Nicole’s father, Jean Gros, was responsible for expanding the domaine once he acceded to the head of the family in 1956. Thirty years later (1986) Nicole joined her father and she now is fully responsible for the operation of the domaine. Her three sons are waiting in the wings!

The estate is located in the village of L’Etoile in the southwestern zone of the Jura. The origin of the name “L’Etoile” (meaning “star”) is attributed to either the fact that there are five hills surrounding the village in the pattern of a star or, more probably, because of the numerous specimens of the fossils of ancient starfish that are found to this day in the soils of this appellation. The appellation itself is very small, including only 52 hectares, principally in the village of L’Etoile but also with certain vineyards in the neighboring villages of Planoiseau, Saint Didier and Qunitigny.

The domaine’s nine hectares are devoted mostly to Chardonnay with Savagnin sited in 1.7 of those hectares; some Trousseau and Poulsard round out the plantings. The viticulture is organic and the vinification is strictly traditional respecting, in all aspects, the ancient practices of this region. Nicole Deriaux’s natural approach to every step of the process captures the true essence of the Etoile appellation in each of the separate bottlings done at the domaine.

All grapes are hand-harvested and vinified in the cellars underneath the family home, which is surrounded by the picturesque mountaintops of the Jura. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel cuves but all wines are then racked into a combination of foudres, demi-muids and smaller barrels, virtually none of which are new. The white wines are aged in barrel; they are never racked; they are not topped off. The very special nature of the appellation of L’Etoile produces white wines of exceptional finesse and complexity.

cremant Crémant du Jura: Nicole Deriaux produces a small amount of sparkling wine from her Chardonnay plantings. The young vines are used to produce the Crémant. The wine undergoes both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations and then spends at least eighteen months on the lies as it passes through the second fermentation in bottle (a la Champagne). Vinified entirely dry and left strictly Brut at the time of disgorgment.
Montbourgeau-Cremant-du-Jura-2011 L’Etoile: This cuvée is the classic white wine of Montbourgeau. It is usually bottled after 24 to 30 months of elevage in barrel. Chardonnay is the dominant grape but an occasional Savagnin vine is found within the Chardonnay plantings, an addition which adds a touch of complexity to the ultimate blend. The fermentation occurs in stainless steel but, after malolactic, the wine is racked into small barrel and demi-muids for two years. At that point, the entire production is assembled and left for several months in cuve before being bottled.
Montbrougeau-L-etoile L’Etoile En Banode: The finesse of the regular cuvée of L’Etoile plays counterpoint to this cuvée, “En Banode” which is a field blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin from a single vineyard source. Not produced every vintage, the “En Banode” is more full-bodied and rustic than the regular L’Etoile bottling and it reflects the special soil characteristics (the grey and blue marne) that are best for planting the finicky Savagnin grape. The “En Banode” bottling occurs after 30 to 36 months of elevage.
Domaine-de-Montbourgeau-Savignan L’Etoile Savagnin: Montbourgeau produces a small amount of pure Savagnin. The grapes are sourced from several sites all underlain by marne (grey/blue). After fermentation, the Savagnin is racked into a mix of different-sized barrels where it rests for four years or so without further racking and without being topped off.
L’Etoile Cuvée Spéciale: This elite cuvée of Chardonnay is Madame Deriaux’s special selection from her best Chardonnay plantings. Like the pure Savagnin cuvée, it is left to age for many months (in this instance usually 48 to 60 months) in barrel without racking and without topping off. It is a wine for the ages with a vibrant acidity underlying a dense and concentrated body with notes of beeswax and honey and resin and minerals.
Domaine-de-Montbourgeau-Cotes-du-Jura-2009

Cotes du Jura Poulsard: Montbourgeau produces a limited amount of red wine from the Poulsard grape. It is a bright, airy wine with a hint of tannin to the finish. This red from L’Etoile is classified as a “Cotes du Jura” since the L’Etoile appellation is strictly reserved for the white wines produced there. We are limited to 600 bottles of this wine per vintage.

Montbourgeau-Macvin Macvin du Jura: The Macvin is a blend of Chardonnay and Poulsard. The fermentation is stopped by the addition of marc. The blend is two-thirds grape must and one-third marc. The Macvin spends three years in barrel before it is bottled and it carries 18% alcohol. Used as a delightful aperitif or as a “vin de meditation”.
Montbourgeau-Vin-de-Paille Vin de Paille: Montbourgeau also produces a tiny amount of a vin de paille. This “paille” is composed of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Savagnin and 20% Poulsard. The grapes are left to raisin in the open air until the January following harvest, effectuating a high degree of concentration. In effect, it takes 100 kilograms of grapes to produce a mere 10 liters of Vin de Paille at Montbourgeau. A total of five hectoliters are produced in the years that Monbourgeau makes a Vin de Paille … obviously very limited availability and bottled exclusively in 375ml size.
Montbourgeau-LEtoile-Vin-Jaune L’Etoile Vin Jaune: Made exclusively from the Savagnin grape, the Vin Jaune of Montbourgeau is always produced from a late harvest. After fermentation the wine is racked into foudres (30 hectoliter size) and then, after six months, racked again into smaller barrels. It is never topped off, the “voile” appears and the wine is left for at least seven years to age in barrel before being declared “Vin Jaune” and being bottled. The “Jaune” of Montbourgeau is more high-toned than the Jaunes of Puffeney and Gahier, less broad perhaps but more fine, a clear reflection of the appellation of L’Etoile.
Download Montbourgeau tech sheet
Domaine NameDOMAINE DE MONTBOURGEAU
Family/Owners NameDERIAUX FAMILY
How many years has the family owned the domaine?Since 1920
How many generations?The 4th generation arrive
How many hectares of vines are leased?0
How many hectares of vines are owned?We own 35 ha but only 10 ha of vines
Are your vineyards or wines Organic or Biodynamic Certified? If yes, in the EU? In the US? If no, are you in the process of becoming certified? When?We practice lutte raisonnee which evolves to organic but without intention of claiming
Describe your vineyard management practices (e.g. low-intervention, organic, biodynamic, standard, etc.).Many works are made by hand :
Do you do field work and harvest manually? By machine? By horse? Do you practice green harvest? Leaf thinning?Harvest, Leef-thinning. Soil treating is done by a tractor.
How do you fertilize?Fertilisation with Chinese radish and oats. Fertilizer are sowed with a drill by tractor. No green harvest this last years beacause of the lack of grapes. Impossible to remove grapes.
Do you typically sell or buy any grapes? Please specify.No
Do you sell off any of your wine en vrac/allo sfuso?No
WINE 1CREMANT DU JURA
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationCREMANT DU JURA
Cepage/UvaggioCHARDONNAY
%ABVAlc 12% by vol
# of bottles produced15000
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth-East, South-West
Soil Types(s)Limestone
Average vine age (per vineyard)10 to 20 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines/ha
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Crémant have no vintages. The next Crémant for US will be 2015 – Nice weather conditions
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmedWhole cluster
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeStainless-steel tank
Select or indigenous yeast?Indigenous yeasts
PLEASE ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING, IF APPLICABLE: pump-overs, punch-downs, racking, movement/transfer of wine done by gravity or pumping?), battonnage, malolactic fermentation allowed, chaptalizationSettling and malolactic fermentation immediatly after the alcoholic fermentation
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)No
Duration of elevage6 months in tank before foam creation
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?No
SPARKLING WINES ONLYThis is only relevant in parts for those who produce non-Champagne wines and we should know this already. At least with respect to whether the process is outsourced (yes, for Thevenet for example; no, for Foreau). We also know about Charmat (Glera) vs. method champenoise.
What is the dosage?0 dosage and 12 months on horizontal storage minimum
WINE 2L’Etoile
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationL’Etoile
Cepage/Uvaggiochardonnay
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced20
Grams of Residual Sugar1g/l
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsMontangis
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth-East
Soil Types(s)Limestone marl
Average vine age (per vineyard)From 4 years to 100 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines/ha
Approximate harvest date(s)From August 30 th to October 10 th
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeStainless steel tank
Duration of contact with leesUntil the malolactic fermentation
Select or indigenous yeast?Indigenous yeasts
PLEASE ADDRESS THE FOLLOWING, IF APPLICABLE: pump-overs, punch-downs, racking, movement/transfer of wine done by gravity or pumping?), battonnage, malolactic fermentation allowed, chaptalizationSettling of the juice, malolatic fermentation
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing in large barrels (25hls) then in barriques
Duration of elevage2 to 3 years
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market4 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeNo fining, light filtration with earth
PLEASE DESCRIBE THIS FINISHED WINE FROM THIS VINTAGE. HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?2014 is a good vintage, fine, elegant but still typical
WINE 3L’Etoile CUVEE SPECIALE
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationL’Etoile
Cepage/Uvaggiochardonnay
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced4
Grams of Residual Sugar1g/l
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsMontangis, ……la Chaux
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth-East
Soil Types(s)Limestone marl
Average vine age (per vineyard)From 20 years to 100 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines/ha
Approximate harvest date(s)From August 30 th to October 10 th
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeThe must are directly put in barriques
Duration of contact with leesUntil bottling
Select or indigenous yeast?Indigenous yeasts
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. Settling
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing in barriques
Duration of elevage4 years
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market4 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeNo fining, light filtration with earth
PLEASE DESCRIBE THIS FINISHED WINE FROM THIS VINTAGE. HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?2012 is a good vintage, fine, elegant, clean and well typical
WINE 4L’Etoile EN BANODE
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationL’Etoile
Cepage/UvaggioChardonnay 50% / savagnin 50%
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced2600
Grams of Residual Sugar1g/l
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsEN BANODE
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth-East
Soil Types(s)Limestone marl
Average vine age (per vineyard)46 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines / ha
Approximate harvest date(s)From August 30 th to October 10 th
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeStainless steel tank
Duration of contact with leesUntil the malolactic fermentation
Select or indigenous yeast?Indigenous yeasts
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. Settling, malolactic fermentation
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing in large barrels (25hl) then in barriques
Duration of elevage3 years
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market4 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeNo fining, light filtration with earth
PLEASE DESCRIBE THIS FINISHED WINE FROM THIS VINTAGE.2012 is a good vintage, fine, elegant, clean and typical
WINE 5L’Etoile SAVAGNIN
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationL’Etoile
Cepage/UvaggioSavagnin
%ABVAlc 13% by vol
# of bottles produced5
Grams of Residual Sugar1g/l
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsMontangis, ……la Chaux
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth East
Soil Types(s)Marl
Average vine age (per vineyard)From 20 years to 100 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines/ha
Approximate harvest date(s)From August 30 th to October 10 th
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeStainless steel tank
Duration of contact with leesUntil malolactic fermentation
Select or indigenous yeast?Indigenous yeasts
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. Settling, malolactic fermentation
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing in large barrels (25hl) then in barriques
Duration of elevage3 to 4 years
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market4 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeNo fining, light filtration with earth
PLEASE DESCRIBE THIS FINISHED WINE FROM THIS VINTAGE. HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?2012 is a nice vintage, fine, elegant, clean and typical
WINE 6VIN DE PAILLE
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationL’ETOILE VIN DE PAILLE
Cepage/UvaggioCHARDONNAY 60% SAVAGNIN 20% POULSARD 20%
%ABVAlc 14% by vol
# of bottles produced2000
Grams of Residual Sugar+ 100g/l
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsMany lieu-dits. Grapes are selected on old plots and picked just before the others
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth-East
Soil Types(s)Limestone, marl
Average vine age (per vineyard)40 to 80 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines/ha
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmedWhole cluster
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeThe grapes are dried on straw grid and pressed in December : the concentration is important. They lose 75% of their volume. Fermentation in stainless steel tank
Duration of cuvaison2 months
Select or indigenous yeast?Indigenous yeasts
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. No chaptalization
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing in barrels of 230 litres, for 3 years
Duration of elevage3 years obligatory
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeFiltration is accoding to the wine
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?No
WINE 7L’Etoile VIN JAUNE
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationL’Etoile
Cepage/Uvaggiochardonnay
%ABVAlc 14% by vol
# of bottles produced3000
Grams of Residual Sugar1g/l
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Vineyard/lieu dit name(s) and locationsBUDE
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth
Soil Types(s)Marl
Average vine age (per vineyard)From 30 to 70 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines/ha
Approximate harvest date(s)From September 10 th to October 10 th
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Vintage 2009 : very good year
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeStainless steel tank
Duration of contact with leesUntil the malolactic fermentation
Select or indigenous yeast?Indigenous yeasts
Please share notes about winemaking process for this wine. Settling, malolactic fermentation
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing in large barrels (25hl) then in barriques for 6 years
Duration of elevage6 to 7 years
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market4 months
Do you practice fining and filtration? If yes, please describeNo fining, light filtration but not necessary with earth
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?No
PLEASE DESCRIBE THIS FINISHED WINE FROM THIS VINTAGE. HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?2009 is a splendid vintage
WINE 8MACVIN DU JURA
GENERAL INFORMATION
AppellationMACVIN DU JURA
Cepage/UvaggioCHARDONNAY
%ABVAlc 17 % by vol
# of bottles produced3 500
VINEYARD AND GROWING INFORMATION
Exposures and slope of vineyardsSouth-east south-west
Soil Types(s)Limestone
Average vine age (per vineyard)10 to 35 years
Average Vine Density (vines/HA)6000 vines/ha
HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO PREVIOUS VINTAGES?Macvin have no vintage
WINEMAKING/CELLAR INFORMATION
% whole cluster, % destemmedWhole cluster
Fermentation: vessel type and sizeNo fermentation
Duration of cuvaisonNo cuvaison. Put into barrels directly
Elevage: vessel type(s) and size(s)Ageing in barrels
Duration of elevage2 years obligatory
Duration of bottle ageing before release to US market4 to 6 months
Do you add sulfur? If so when and how much? How much sulfur remains in the wine at release?No
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Arbois and Domaine de Montbourgeau

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A Day in the Jura

Sunday, Sept 22, 2013 Neal spent the day visiting our producers in the Jura.  Here are his notes: “I spent last Sunday (September 22) visiting each of our four producers. The first issue to discuss is “reduction” in certain wines from our producers in the Jura. Of course, we had this problem raise its ugly […]

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Drinking Montbourgeau and Listening to Billy Holliday

We are in the midst of a special moment, a quiet dinner at home on the evening before we leave to prospect in the Piedmont and Calabria. The atmosphere is cool, calm and crystalline – listening to Billy Holliday sing and drinking the L’Etoile Cuvee Speciale 2006 from Nicole Deriaux’s Domaine de Montbourgeau, a brief […]

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