These Provençal pours are not the rosé you expect

Posted on Posted in Articles, Domaine du Bagnol, Wine Press

BY THE GLASS ||

By Ellen Bhang || GLOBE CORRESPONDENT || MAY 28, 2018 ||

ELLEN BHANG FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

The Mediterranean-hugging region of Provence in the sunny French South is arguably the most rosé-associated place on the planet. And while there is plenty of pink to be had, don’t let glossy ad campaigns lull you into thinking that’s all there is. Provençal whites and reds — as well as a copper-hued pour offering something extra — are too good to be missed.

Cassis, a diminutive coastal appellation southeast of Marseille, is the only AOC in Provence to produce mainly white wine. It’s home to Jean-Louis Genovesi and his son Sébastien at Domaine du Bagnol. The father-son duo revived this 17-acre estate after its previous owner died, leaving no heirs to carry on the winemaking. Situated near the foot of Cap Canaille, a high sea cliff, grapes like marsanne, clairette, and ugni blanc all thrive in this location near the shore. The resulting wine is vinified to preserve tantalizing tang, and expresses ripe fruit, pith, and a suggestion of salt.

Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc 2016: Waterfall-fresh on the nose, with scents of ripe yellow tree fruit. On the palate, salty-savory notes present at the forefront, giving way to nectarine, citrus pith, and white petals. Around $27. At Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge, 617-354-4750; Needham Center Fine Wines, Needham, 781-400-1769.

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