Vodopivec

Each bottle of Paolo Vodopivec’s wines that we open solidifies something we sensed in our very first encounters: there is nothing on earth quite like these.

Each bottle of Paolo Vodopivec’s wines that we open solidifies something we sensed in our very first encounters: there is nothing on earth quite like these. It’s not just that the wines are outstanding – they indisputably are – they seem to operate on their own existential plane. Through his own admission, Paolo strives to efface the grower’s ego and render wines that are faithful translations of Karst earth. It’s not as if Paolo is new to the scene. His father worked the same brutal, wind-battered terrain in the Carso, and Paolo achieved early notoriety for making heavily macerated wines long before skin contact became the phenomenon it is today. However, those who know only his early-2000’s vintages and feel they have a handle on his style should consider an updated review.

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Vodopivec has found, over time, that Vitovska’s capacity for mineral expression can be obscured through an abundance of tannin, and the newfound gentleness in his wines allows them to speak with shocking clarity. Yes, all the wines are skin-macerated, but these are adamantly not “orange wines.” Paolo employs skin contact because it best expresses the limestone into which his Vitvoska plumbs, and because it better allows him to work without the manipulations of temperature control, outside yeasts, sulfur, and filtration, which to him are anathema. Vodopivec has also embraced, with total confidence, the buried amphora as an ideal vessel for fermenting his cherished Vitovska. There is no stainless steel in Paolo’s cellar, no high-tech pneumatic press, no method of manipulating temperature. The man doesn’t even like having his photograph taken. But, again, these are technical details—details which may satisfy our craving for authenticity and rectitude, but things which feel a bit trite in the face of such singular, awe-inspiring wines.

Farming

Practicing organic with some biodynamic practices

Treatments

Copper sulfate only

Ploughing

Annual ploughing to maintain vineyard health

Soils

Pure Karst limestone with naturally occurring iron-rich topsoils and significant flint deposits

Vines

Trained in Alberello (Gobelet) and planted at 10,500 vines/ha, vines average 20 years old

Yields

Controlled through severe winter pruning and debudding

Harvest

Entirely manual, usually in late September

Sourcing

Entirely estate fruit

Fermentation

After total destemming, crop ferments spontaneously on its skins in buried, 14-25 hl Georgian Terracotta amphoarae. Cuvaison lasts c. 6 months. Origine cuvée ferments in 30-hl tronconic Slavonian oak tini for c. 2 weeks

Extraction

Wines see c. 4 punchdowns per day during fermentation, no bâtonnage during élevage

Chaptalization

None

Pressing

Vertical basket press

Malolactic Fermentation

Spontaneous, following with alcoholic fermentation

Élevage

24-36 months in 30-hl, neutral Slavonian oak botti

lees

Wines remain on their fine lees during élevage

Fining and Filtration

Wines are unfined and unfiltered

Sulfur

Applied only at bottling, with c. 30-35 mg/l total sulfur

Farming

Practicing organic with some biodynamic practices

Treatments

Copper sulfate only

Ploughing

Annual ploughing to maintain vineyard health

Soils

Pure Karst limestone with naturally occurring iron-rich topsoils and significant flint deposits

Vines

Trained in Alberello (Gobelet) and planted at 10,500 vines/ha, vines average 20 years old

Yields

Controlled through severe winter pruning and debudding

Harvest

Entirely manual, usually in late September

Sourcing

Entirely estate fruit

Fermentation

After total destemming, crop ferments spontaneously on its skins in buried, 14-25 hl Georgian Terracotta amphoarae. Cuvaison lasts c. 6 months. Origine cuvée ferments in 30-hl tronconic Slavonian oak tini for c. 2 weeks

Extraction

Wines see c. 4 punchdowns per day during fermentation, no bâtonnage during élevage

Chaptalization

None

Pressing

Vertical basket press

Malolactic Fermentation

Spontaneous, following with alcoholic fermentation

Élevage

24-36 months in 30-hl, neutral Slavonian oak botti

Lees

Wines remain on their fine lees during élevage

Fining & Filtration

Wines are unfined and unfiltered

Sulfur

Applied only at bottling, with c. 30-35 mg/l total sulfur

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